Improvement in button-hole sewing-machine



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, I. NASCE. BUTTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE.

Patented June'21`f18`70.

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Letters Potent No. 104,630,1lated une 21, 1870.`

11i/:PRovm/muill IN Burrow-HOLE SEWING-MACHINE.

, Thelschedule referred to inv these Letters fat-ant and making part of the saine.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1,-Is1n0n Nason, of' Berlin, in thc Kingdom of Prussia, 'have invented a new Button` hole Sewing-lilachine; and I do hereby declare that the following is 'a full, clear, and exact description .of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawing making a part of the same, in which- Figure 1 is a front elevation of my machine, and Figure 2is a side elevation. 1 .Figure 3 is a view of the shuttle detached. llfIyinvcntion relates to machines forsewing buttonholes; and consists in the combination of two needles, arranged transversely tothe direction of the feed,- whereof one works through the cloth and the other through the buttonfhole, with a shuttle and a vbrating arm, which delivers the gimp orbimling-cord from .its end, and vibratcs past the needles in' such a mauner as to draw their two threads togethcrwhile the stitches are taken, the saidl arm also being provided at its upper end 'with a spring, which is pressed at the proper time, bythevibrationoi' the arm, agaiustthe .gimp-spool, to produccan intermittent tension there- The letters a b designate two needles, eachA having a separate thread.

The needle a receives 'its thread from the loose spool "A, whose thread passes through the eye g, thence around the fixed disk or plate h, whosc'pcriphery4 is grooved to receive the thread, thence through the eye of the spring take-up fi, and thence tlnough the eye of the needle c..

. The ncedleb receives its thread from the spool B, to which prcssureis applied for the purpose oi' creating suitable friction on the spool, by means of a spiral spring andV nut ou theQspindle of the spool, in the usual manner, asis is shown in fig. 2.

The thread from this `spool B passes through the eye k, thence through the eye of the thence down to the needle b.

The gimp-thread or 'cord is on' the third spool,'1,

take-up i, and.

. which is arranged in such a position that it can be reached by the upper part ofthe vibrating arm or bow a, as hereinafter explained.

rlhe gimp-spool Z'is `prevented from turning too freely by means of aspring, and nut, and washer, in the usual manner, and the gimp-thread orcord is conducted fromit through an' eye at the end of a steel spring, fm,which projects in front of thc spook, as is shown in fig. 2, whence it is taken downward and passed through an eye, at, formed on the front corner of the cam al, thence through thc upper hole p of arm a, and thence through the lower holco ot that arm, whence it `passes tothe buttonhole, on the edge of which it is secured by the needle-thrczuls.

The fourth thread proceeds from thespoolm'in'thc shut-tlc t.

'lhe sides of the shuttle are provided with the usual holes for tension, through which holes the shuttle-V thread is passed, and also with' afbar or evener for taking the thread directly ii'oln `the spool, which, in 4 this example, is placed on the right side of the shuttle, observing fig. 3. e

After thc thread has been passed through the teusion-holcs inthe left side ofthe shuttle, observing tig.-

3, it goes through the eye s, made in thefree end of a springplatc, F, arranged within the shuttle, along its right-hand side. v

From the spring F, the thread is returnedagain across the spool m', and inally passes out througha hole inl the left-hand side of the shuttle.

'.lhe main shaft Q extends through the hollow arm U ot' the machine, and gives motion in the usual luanncr to the needle-bar, which carries the two needles. f

` Uponthe said shaft Q is fixed a bevel-wheel, 1?,

Awhich gears with a larger bevel-wheel', lt, that turns theY arm or bow a, in such a manner that the arm will be vibrated around its pivot fu, which is placed in the same vertical line with the space between the two needles, and said arm is caused to vibrate. iu a curved path, opposite to and to theright and left of the ncedlcs, by means of a cam, al, arranged below the pivot fw, the said arm having a joint, a?, below its pivot, which allows it to 'bend outward and inward, and conform to the cam, against which-it is constantly pressed by the spring n, which compels thc arm to follow the course ot' the cam, the cam being so formed that the armclears the needles while passing in front of them,`

rlhe upper part of the vibrating arm n terminates in a tlat spring, a', which is arranged in such a manner as to come against the gimp-spool Z at every movel ment of the arm a toward the .rig-ht, observing tig. 2, whereby the spool is held fast, andthe gimp is stretched until the arm Ia begins its return movement toward the left.

Alongside of' the feed-dog ot' the machine, and in front of the right-hand needle 11, I provide a vert-ical seinicircular horn, y, which rises from the, table, as is represented in the drawing, for the purpose of entering the button-hole and guiding it in the operation of sewing its edges; and I-put it in front of the needle b, for the purpose ot' causing that needle to work through the button-hole, and not through the cloth, the horn y having its concavcfsidc toward the needle b, which moves up'aud down in such a line that it is partly sur rounded by the horn.

rlhe operation of the machine is as follows:

The drawing shows the lowest position of the needles, with the vibrating gimp-arm n on the left-hand side oi' needle a, and said arm is also represented in dotted outline at the rightof needle l).

reached their lowest position at the time the, shuttle` is going through the loops of their threads-l A twofold or compound movement is communicated to the arm n, namely, a movement toward the left and right, past both needles, and a movement at right angles thereto, in obedience to the curve of the cam nl. In its movement toward lthe left, as it passes needle b, it catches the thread of that needle above its eye,

the end of the arm having a lateral lip on each side for the purpose ot' 'taking and retaining the needlethreads, and bears it toward the left and places it upon the thread of the needle a, and, meantime, the stuit' is moved along bythe feeding device, and the needles are lifted..

'lhe driving-shaft eontinunghits movement, the t-wo needles again descend, and stitch over or straddlc the gimp while the arm u moves toward thc right, and, when the arm again reaches a pcrpemlicular posit-ion in front of the needies, the latter will have regained their deepest position, and, the movement of the parts being continued, the arm moves to its extreme position on the right, its spring meantime prcssingagainst the gimp-spool, and arresting the delivery of the gimp and tightening it, whereby the thread of the needle a is drawn by the gimp over to the thread 0f needle b,

so as to unite them together while the next stitch is being taken, and the over-cast stitch is thus produced, the gimp bearing both threads alternately tothe right and left, so that, while the needles themselves straddlc the gimp, and needle .a penetrates the clot-h and needle l1 the button-hole, both threadsare alternately interlocked with each other. l

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

,1` The vibrating arm n, with its spring x, combined and operating in connection with the spool l and needles a b, substantially as described.

2. The vibrating arm a and its spring x, in combination with the gimp-spool l, substantially as described.

3. The vibrating hinged thread-carrying arm n, in

combination with the cam n on the head of the ma'- chinc, and the two needles, substantially as described.

ISIDOR NASCH.

Witnesses H.. KREISMAXN, ROBERT GOTTMIL. 

